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DeVito’s Pizza IV is a neighborhood joint that makes great Neapolitan-style pizza (aka NY style). As far as we know, it is now the oldest pizza joint under continuous management within the city limits, having been founded in February of 1985. At the time, Joe’s Tomato Pie (founded 1911), Papa’s (1912), and DeLorenzo’s (1936), were all still operating in Trenton. They’re now all gone. Joe’s closed when the owner had a heart attack, and the other two moved to the suburbs. Other, less iconic, Chambersburg joints have all changed ownership, and many now serve better pupusas than their pizza. So, along with Jerry’s Pizza and Grill on Broad Street, DeVito’s is the best place to get a pizza we’ve found still operating in town.
DeVito’s IV (I, II, and III no longer exist) is located in one of Trenton’s more obscure neighborhoods, variously Chestnut Park, Adeline, or South Trenton depending on whom you’re talking to. Regardless, it’s tucked away in a residential neighborhood south of Lalor St, and just east of the old pottery factory buildings that line 129. However, DeVito’s will deliver across a big swathe of Trenton, including the Mill Hill and Downtown. When I visited for lunch recently, while the restaurant was fairly quiet, at least one driver, and possibly two (I wasn’t paying close attention), were in-and-out making delivery runs.
We discovered DeVito’s when a number of loyal customers nominated it for our Tomato Pie contest. We had to eliminate it from consideration because it doesn’t make tomato pie. Personally, I prefer tomato pie, but my wife prefers pizza and loves DeVito’s pie. What’s the difference? Tomato pie is a thin, crispy crust, with light cheese and crushed tomato sprinkled on top instead of sauce. Devito’s pizza, by contrast, has a crust that is soft and flexible (only the rim is crisp), tomato sauce, and lots of cheese on top. Both are wonderful. Pizza holds up better to being delivered and re-heated than does tomato pie (which we always eat at the restaurant).
Devito’s pie isn’t “gourmet”, but it’s a really well executed version of a classic pizza. The rim is crispy and flavorful, and it’s topped with ample, good quality cheese, which is a nicely balanced with the sauce and crust. At $12.25 for a one-topping, extra large (18″) pie, it’s also a bargain.
DeVito’s also makes standard “grill food”: steak sandwiches and burgers, as well as cold sandwiches, and a limited “dinner” menu with pasta, or eggplant or chicken parmesan. They’ll also prepare chicken Marsala or Francese in catering quantities (but not individual orders). We’ve not yet tried their other foods, but will be back to sample them.